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Schooner Zodiac: Books A’ Sail

Schooner Zodiac: Books A’ Sail

If you’re a book lover intrigued by sailing or a sailor intrigued by books, check out Books A’ Sail. Each September, Schooner Zodiac and Village Books team up for a three-day adventure, which casts off from Fairhaven in Bellingham, Washington and sails through the San Juan Islands National Monument. Only the wind knows in advance where the schooner is headed.

Schooner under sail

Paul Hanson and Kelly Evert of Village Books guide the literary journey. They bring a famous author to discuss the writing life by night and perhaps join passengers learning the ropes of schooner sailing by day. This year’s author, Jim Lynch, came with his lovely wife, Denise, and shared insights into his thought-provoking new novel, Before the Wind.

Novel, Before the Wind 

Having already read the book, passengers dove into a number of stimulating topics. One was the novel’s Johannssen family. Like them, some of us passengers grew up in sailing families and recognize the highly-motivated father, struggling to keep his boat business afloat and his “total mess of a family” together to crew one last great race, the Seattle to Victoria Swiftsure.

Of course, since we saw our families in the book, we asked if Jim’s family was there, too. He admitted to one member, the kindly old grandfather, anchor of the clan. But I suspect the well-intentioned Josh Johannssen is endowed with Lynch-family genes as well.

Another discussion focused on Einstein, who was himself a sailor. Through Beyond the Wind as well as the companion book, Einstein’s Dreams, the second evening saw passengers delve into the concepts of time and space, as well as the physics of sailing.

On day three, Zodiac first mate, Sam—the most charming Scottish guy you’ll ever meet—led a discussion on the book, Tides, a topic increasingly important to us student sailors as we tried to navigate the Salish Sea.

First Mate, Sam, explains TIDES.

 

While aboard the Schooner Zodiac, you are sailing on a piece of history, commissioned by the Johnson and Johnson family in 1924.

World Heritage Registration plaque

As such, the schooner requires a crew much larger than the eight or nine regulars. Therefore, Captain Tim offers a “gentle invitation” to participate in as much or as little sailing as you want.

Our fellow passengers were not only interesting but, for the most part, a willing, hardy lot and accepted Tim’s challenge. Everyone participated in the rotation assignments.

Step One: Go to the chart room and learn about the tides and currents in the Salish Sea.

Using charts and computer to determine the tides and currents.

 

Step Two: Go to the helm and learn how to wrestle with the winds, tides, and currents.

 

Nancy at the Helm

Nancy at the Helm. Jim Lynch supervising.

 

at the helm

Perry Adair at the helm

 

Paul Hansen at the helm

Paul Hanson at the helm (courtesy of Jack McBride)

 

Step Three: Go to the bow and be on the lookout for logs, other boats, whales, and porpoises (or were those dolphins?) Check, check, check, and check.

Lookout on the bow

 

Step Four: Relax in front of the helm, enjoy the view, and relay messages to the captain.

Messenger

 

If you really want to stretch yourself, you can join a team to be in charge of one of the four sails. This is my team, assigned to the mainsail.

Mainsail crew

John teaching the mainsail crew: author Jim, blogger Me, Village Books owner Kelly, author Jes; (courtesy of photographer, Jack McBride)

Hoisting the sail.

Hoisting the sail

Finishing off the hoist.
Hoisting the sail

 

 

Striking and flaking the sails.

Lowering and packing the sail

folding the main sail

 

While our ports of call were Lopez Island and Friday Harbor, those may not be yours. So much depends on the wind. While you are moored or on break, however,

Zodiac in the Bay

Moored at Spencer Spit, Lopez Island (courtesy, Jack McBride)

you can kayak,

 

Make new friends with some fascinating characters,


meeting new people

Cat



read,

Reading on board

Reading

(courtesy of Jes Stone)

or relax.

The only guarantee on this trip is that wherever the Schooner Zodiac goes, your surroundings will be stunning. In spring, summer, or fall, few places on earth are as beautiful as Puget Sound.

 

The Zodiac schooner with Mt. Baker in the Background

courtesy of crew member, Taylor Hodges

_______________________________________________________________

Feature image courtesy of Jack McBride@ McBride PhotoGraphics

I MISS ABE

I MISS ABE

Two weeks ago our current president talked about what it means to “be presidential” and compared himself to the “late, great Abraham Lincoln.” “Hmm,” I said to myself. “Gotta check this out.”

So, here I am on the Lincoln Heritage Trail, where historical sites, tours, and re-enactments reveal what it means to be presidential.

Lincoln was born into humble circumstances. If I had time to visit Kentucky, I could show you how vague property laws caused constant law suits, which forced Thomas Lincoln to move. Instead, I’ll skip ahead eight years to when the family of four arrived on the Indiana frontier.

Thomas and eight-year-old Abe had to chop their way to their new 100-acre farm.

Indiana forest

Path through dense Indiana forest to Lincoln farm

In Indiana, hard work forged Abe’s personality and character.  In his “spare time,” he read voraciously, which allowed him to self-educate when he couldn’t attend school.

Young Lincoln and cabin

Young man with big ideas (Lincoln Pres. Museum)

Industrious, he found several means to make money, including rowing passengers to the middle of the river to meet steam boats. A ferry company sued him at the tender age of 16. He won. Thus began his interest in the law.

He also tried his hand at shop keeping, where he earned the nickname “Honest Abe” because a woman overpaid him by a few cents, and he walked a long way to correct the error.

Lincoln the shop keeper

(Lincoln Presidential Museum)

In the militia during the Black Hawk wars, Lincoln’s men voted him to the rank of captain.

Arriving in Illinois at age 21, Lincoln became a lawyer and served in the State House of Representatives when the capital was in Vandalia.

Illinois State Capitol building in Vandalia

Here he showed his compassion with his first public statement on slavery in 1837. Yes at the young age of 28 he spoke out against racism and bigotry. By this time, he also served on the court.

Lincoln campaigned to move the capital to Springfield.

Lincoln courting Mary Todd

Lincoln courting Mary Todd, 1840, Springfield (Lincoln Presidential Museum)

 

Lincoln Home

The only house he owned.

When considering his candidacy, the Republican Party sent an artist to sketch the house, inside and out, to see if he had enough class to be president.

original couch

Original couch, stuffed in horse hair

Lincoln's bed

The real Lincoln Bedroom

Mary's bedroom

Mary’s adjoining bedroom

 

 

 

 

 

Old Capitol Building, Springfield

 

Old Capital Stairs

 

campaign office

Lincoln organizes his presidential campaign in the Old Capitol Building

 

Lincoln's campaign wagon

Lincoln’s campaign wagon

General Grant

In the Old Capitol, Geneneral Grant now tells the story

Old Capital House of Representatives

in the room where Lincoln lay in state

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The highlight of the Lincoln Trail is the Presidential Museum. It walks visitors through his incredible life, and highlights his strength of character.

Lincoln and son

Calm, loving father

 

A great debater

 

Poster of Lincoln as Gulliver

Victim of mockery

Despite vast legal and political experience, criticism wore him down. No one was ever satisfied. His actions either went too far or not far enough.

Emancipation Proclamation poster

 

This is portrayed most painfully in the exhibit on the Emancipation Proclamation. As you walk down a hall of hanging glass panels, special effects cast ghostly faces, which hurl a barrage of complaints and insults at you as if you were Lincoln. Makes you want to turn and run. Glad he had the courage and fortitude to stand firm.

In private, he grew morose. In public, he took the high road, often responding with self-deprecation or humor.

Mary did not have such survival skills, and suffered even more. In Springfield, she was quite popular, throwing parties for 100 in her living room. Yet in Washington, she had rivals, particularly Mrs. Seward.

In public she was showy and elegant.

In private, she remained in bed for days.

Despite the hardships, Lincoln’s integrity kept him true to his core values.

I would not be a slave quote

Frederick Douglass, often disagreed with Lincoln, yet still appreciated the burden of his mission. On the whole, he believed, no one else could have done what Lincoln did.

He was a great humanitarian.

Even after the Civil War, hatred continued.

After the War, hatred continued

John Wilkes Booth

With Lincoln’s body laid to rest at the Old Capitol, Edwin Stanton, the Secretary of War, pronounced him “A man for the ages.”

Lincoln's Tomb, Springfield

Lincoln’s Tomb, Springfield

Taps at Oak Ridge Cemetary

Taps ceremony at Oak Ridge Cemetery

So that’s what I learned this week. Now I ask you: will our current president become a man for the ages?

The Surprising Southeast, Part I

The Surprising Southeast, Part I

Haven’t been to the Southeast for twenty-five years. This April/May it was time to go back.

When you think about the Southeast your mind conjures up beautiful beaches: Ft. Lauderdale, Daytona, “Where the Boys Are.” You’ve been there. I’ll get to the beaches in Part Two. First I want to talk about the surprises we found driving south from Savannah to Key West and beyond, then cutting across the Everglades to drive north along the Gulf Coast.

 

Birds

Harris Neck Wildlife Refuge

Birders are always on a quest for firsts. Harris Neck Wildlife Refuge did not disappoint. Just south of Savannah we made an unplanned stop at this small reserve. Lucky, too. The wood stork rookery was in full production with hundreds of couples raising their newborn chicks.

Wood stork landing at the rookery in Harris Neck Wildlife Refuge

But the best first was the painted bunting. An incredibly beautiful songbird, endangered because of illegal trade and habitat loss.

 

Canaveral National Seashore

Cape Canaveral is not just for space travel. Along the road look for roseated spoonbills, egrets, herons, and alligators. And along the water, look for Grills Seafood Restaurant. Sit and watch the pelicans diving for fish while you dive into yours.

Roseate Spoonbill in Florida

“Roseate Spoonbill” by Holmes Palacios

 

The Dry Tortugas National Park

This set of islands, dry with no fresh water available, is a seventy-mile boat trip west of Key West, and was the goal and highlight of our trip. Transportation to this The National Park is available through a contractor and includes two meals.

Yankee Freedom Ferry to Dry Tortugas

The snorkeling was incredible—especially for me in my new, one-piece snorkel mask. Unfortunately, my underwater camera case didn’t work.

snorkeling

The island is also a bird sanctuary for frigates, sooty terns, noddy terns, and blue-footed boobies. Bush Key was so crowded with birds, it needed air traffic control.

Masses of birds at Bush Key, Dry Tortugas

Sanibel Island

On the way north we stopped at J.N. “Ding” Darling Wildlife Refuge, where I saw my first reddish egret.

Water Ways

On the first night of our trip, we visited friends east of Savannah and did a sunset cruise through the marshes near Tybee Island. With hors d’oeuvres and wine, we watched dolphins leap, herons wade, and pelicans swoop, as we putted past beautiful homes and rows of docks.

The Intercoastal Waterway only gets more beautiful, the homes more exclusive as you approach Miami. If you’re not visiting friends with a yacht, take a water taxi ride from Ft. Lauderdale or Hollywood.

Mansion on the Intercoastal WaterWay

Stop at a restaurant on the water’s edge, like Billy’s Stone Crab in Hollywood. Go in the spring for Stone Crab season—your taste buds will thank you. And if you’re lucky, you’ll also see a manatee flap his huge tail as he cruises by. (Too quickly for a photo.)Billy's Stone Crab on the Intercostal Waterway

 

If you’re up for strolling the beach in the evening, stop outside Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville Hotel in Hollywood for live and lively entertainment in the band shell. (Check out the lobby, too. It’s a blast.)

Margaritaville check-in desk

Margaritaville check-in desk

 

Margaritaville chandelier

Margaritaville chandelier

 

History Surprises

Dry Tortugas

Fort Jefferson, a sturdy outpost built on the Dry Tortugas during the War of 1812, ended up holding the Lincoln conspirators. You can see Dr. Mudd’s cell. (Did your mother every say to you, “Your name is Mudd”?)

Fort Jefferson from the water

Fort Jefferson

 

Fort Jefferson moat

 

Fort Jefferson interior

A sturdy fort surviving the Gulf storms.

Georgia

In Plains, the Jimmy Carter Museum in his old schoolhouse features a quote from his teacher, Miss Julia Coleman, that inspired him his whole life.

“We must adjust to changing times and still hold to unchanging principles.” 

The closest big city to Plains, Americus, Georgia, is charming. We went to the vintage Windsor Hotel, circa 1892.

Windsor Hotel Americus, Georgia

Windsor Hotel Lobby

Not only was the meal great with a pork chop stuffed with cream cheese and cherries, but we walked through the historical Lindbergh dining room. Named because in 1923 Charles Lindbergh flew his first solo flight from Americus.

Windsor Hotel, Lindbergh Dining Room

Before flying out of Atlanta, we visited the Martin Luther King sites.

Original Ebenezer Baptist Church

Ebenezer Baptist Church, where MLK began his ministry in 1947

 

New Ebenezer Baptist Church

The new Ebenezer Baptist Church across the street

If you have mind to attend the Ebenezer Baptist Church, make sure you dress for it. These parishioners give a new, elevated, meaning to “Sunday Best.”

FEET FORWARD!

“The sacred Ganges River taught me to raft.”

“In that polluted brown stew?” the doubters laugh.

“No, fellow travelers, have no fear.

Above the cremation ghats, it’s mineral-water clear.

But maybe you’ll be bumped out of your boat, Land in a stream, and struggle to float.”

“Feet Forward!” the raft guide will tell you to go.

“Orient yourself! Move with the flow!”

I heeded his words, not thinking twice.

And wherever I travel, I take his advice.

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